Off Piste in Queenstown

After our adventures in Fiordland, we were hoping to catch some skiing in Queenstown. We'd booked Evie into daycare for two days and had our lift passes at the ready. Best laid plans...NO SNOW! The worst start to the season in 50years.

Ah well; fortunately we could still enjoy the luxury of a good hotel and city totally catered for tourists. We took in amazing views from long walks and were wowed by the spectacular scenery of the Southern Lakes.

Andy perfects his Pram Poses

Dusk in Queenstown

The closest we got to the mountains, the top of the Queenstown skyline gondola.

Top of Queenstown, The Remarkables ski area behind us

We visited the quaint goldmining town Arrowtown and brought Evie a memento of her travels, a pounamu tiki necklace

Evie sporting her new necklace

Of course, travelling with Evie isn't always smooth sailing. Unlike Mum and Dad, she wasn't a big fan of the hotel, so we took to hiding in the sauna while she settled, eating our Thai there one evening

Desperate parents, staking out the hotel sauna

After all the adventures in Queenstown, we still had hope for making it up Coronet Peak and Treble Cone as we had a week in Wanaka. Yet again, the lack of snow meant we were rewarded instead with beautiful sunny winter days, but no skiing. We tried mountain biking, went on lakeside walks and climbed Mount Irons as well as treating ourselves to a babysitter for a Sat night out.

Lake Wanaka

Some of the walks were the usual work out for Andy and I, always opting to carry Evie in the sling, and at 5 months she's getting pretty heavy. It was a steep climb to the top of Mt Irons, but we loved the 360 of the Southern lakes at the top.

Top of Mt Irons in Wanaka

Lastly, we couldn't have left central Otago without indulging in more wine tasting. Particularly, Mt Difficulty in Brannockburn for a delicious lunch and even better Pinot.

Enjoying Mt Difficulty

Fun in Fiordland

Travelling with Evie involves stopping regularly, which means we visit more random new zealand towns than the average traveller. Gore is one of those, there aren't too many reasons to stop, but as always we found something to entertain us...this time ice skating

We arrived in Te anau the next day, at 'Fire bath' cottage where we hoped to enjoy the Fiordland. However lake Te anau itself is also stunning. We savoured many spectacular walks around the lake and in the surrounding area.

Late afternoon at Lake Te Anau

'Fire bath' cottage of course has its very own outdoor bath tube heated by a log fire. It's an entertaining experience, although it took hours to warm, we enjoyed a soak under the stars.

Fiordland boasts both Milford and Doubtful sound so we split the fun between us. Andy craved a little more adventure and went for a day kayaking in Milford and I took the leisurely day cruise through Doubtful.

Doubtful sound is a fjord with three main arms, formed from glacial activity. There are many imposing waterfalls and an abundance of sea life, including bottlenose dolphin, fur seals and penguins.
As it is only accessible (other than by sea) via Wilmots Pass road it is more remote and eerily silent than anywhere I'd visited before.

Starting the day on a misty morning with a ferry crossing over lake Manapouri, there was already a magical vibe. After a short drive along Wilmots pass through beautiful rainforest, I boarded the Sinbad for a 3 hour cruise through the sound. I was lucky enough to see playful bottlenose dolphins and fur seals but the majestic valleys and gushing waterfalls really take your breath away.

Looking out towards Doubtful Sound

Milford Sound

Kayaking Milford Sound in winter raises the stakes as you really don't want to fall into the cold water. The day begins with a fantastically scenic drive along the Milford road, followed by squeezing into a double kayak for a close encounter with nature. Luckily Andy's kayaking partner was Roger from Switzerland: his kayaking skills were equally as smooth as the strokes of his tennis playing namesake. 

Encounters with the Southern man

Feeling like we'd absorbed the nature aspect of the east coast for a while, we embraced a week of the tourist sites in Dunedin.

Of course, this meant the Speights brewery was our first stop (luckily just around the corner from our apartment). The main attraction, the end of the tour with half an hour to drink as much beer as you can. First you embark on a full history of the brewery and beer making, hosted by a lovely kiwi girl, straight from the 80's; double denim and bleach blond perm.

Andy with Mr Speights, I think we're in need of a drink!

The highlight, other than the beer, is the TV ad championing the beer drinking 'Southern man' (the opposite to our Southern man).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn854FXO8z0&feature=related

Several beers later, we took Evie next-door to the Speights pub for more drinks, although it wasn't too long before Evie reminded us of our parenting responsibilities!

Spoiling ourselves yet again we headed to the Cadbury factory. Our tour guide, a suitably cuddly and expert Cadburys' host showed us the Easter eggs, button machine and a finale 1 tonne chocolate fountain. We even got extra chocs as Evie couldn't manage hers. Unfortunately we looked a little ridiculous sporting the essential hair nets, they even made Andy wear one.

Spot the tourists!

Afterwards, Evie took me for a drive!

We whiled away the rest of the week taking in the historical, Scottish style buildings and getting our culture fix. Evie loved the kaleidoscope exhibit in the art gallery, I relished a trip to the theatre and Andy living his surfing dream watching 'Last Paradise' at the local cinema.

Evie and Mum mesmerised by the  kaleidoscope

Plus, no trip with Evie is complete without stroller walks, some west coast highlights...

Sculptures at Port Chalmers looking back at the Otago Peninsula

Clouds clearing after a wet day on the east coast

Tremors towards Dunedin

Arriving in Hamner was a beautiful experience. Gorgeous pine forest on a crisp autumnal day. Andy offered to babysit while I visited the hot springs, so I passed a blissful few hours in the bubbles as the sun came down. 

Hamner Forest

It was just a brief stop though as we went further around the peninsula to Christchurch and stayed with friends of friends from Waihi beach. On the way getting a speeding fine for going 13 km over the limit (approx 8 mph!). It was here that we had our first earthquake experience, a tremor (aftershock) over dinner. Small in comparison to the effects they've since felt. Although we wanted to support tourism there, it was difficult so we passed via the city and along the eastern coastline; which although very picturesque, strangely eerie as so many of the houses were obviously deserted.

Looking back to Christchurch

It was just a few hours drive along the peninsula before reaching the pretty town, of French origin - Akaroa, more good eateries and walks. Still signs of tectonic movement, here's Andrew outside the temporary Earthquake Commission building.

Evie having  a great time in Akaroa

Onwards on our mission to see the yellow eyed penguins in Oamaru, but couldn't pass through without spending a night in Geraldine, in honor of Mum McIntosh. It's a pretty town, but our accommodation - named 'Grumpys' holiday park, did indeed make us feel grumpy - freezing cold and in bunkbeds, only one thing for it - to drink wine!

Clare, grumpy!

It was all worth it on arrival to Oamaru, a surprisingly interesting Victorian town.
We took Evie to the pretty botanical gardens, whisky tasting, superb Forrester art gallery and lastly to visit the penguins at dusk in the blustery winds. We were lucky enough to see them waddle up the beach and nest in the cliff top.

Evie goes for Dad's whisky

Evie's had a few too many!

Spot the penguin

As we left Oamaru for Dunedin, we found ourselves at the obligatory tourist spot 'Moeraki Boulders'. 9am and extremely windy, we marvelled at the spherical stones - up to 3m in diameter.

Wine and Wildlife on the South Island

The InterIslander saw us safely onto the South Island, first stop Picton. A town nestled in the queen charlotte sound at the point where the interislander ferry docks. Most travellers pass very quickly through this picturesque harbourside town, but we felt it was well worth a visit for the afternoon and really quite underrated. The town planners have been careful in designing lots of open spaces for the tourists to enjoy and you can very quickly walk to some fantastic rural locations.

Waterfront in Picton

First priority as always was to find good wine, and we were in luck, as the Marlborough region is world renowned for producing stunning Sauvignon Blanc. Due to financial restrictions, we decided we should try backpackers lodge. This worked out suprisingly well as they supplied us with a  evie-sized trailer for our bicycles so we could tour the vineyards in style! Our pick of the vineyards was Cloudy Bay.

Evie and Dad cycling the Renwick vineyards

Our fav - Cloudy bay

Delicious Villa Maria

After a sleepless night we piled back into the car and drove North towards Nelson. A popular coastal city for kiwi tourists at the gateway of the Golden Bay region. We loved it, despite the fact we picked another rental property at the top of a hill to stay in. Soon we will get used to the fact we are parents and have a heavy old pushchair to lug around!
One of the best memories of Nelson was the welcoming family who kindly babysat for us so we could go out for the evening. They were very dissapointed Evie did not wake up!

We had a particularly amusing day out at a Salmon farm in the Abel Tasman National Park. Owned by a dutch couple, this farm allows you to fish for your lunch in their lake and they will then smoke your catch. Clare showed her sensitive side by being unable to kill the fish, when she had finally caught one.
 

Clare Salmon fishing

Andy makes a catch!

30mins later...Lunch!

The water sports continued for Evie, as well as her first fishing trip, she also had her first swim with Daddy. If you look closely enough you'll also see that Daddy put the swimming costume on back to front!

Evie's first swim

Onwards we powered further around the coast to Kaikora. Appreciating on the way, the first of several awesome natural sights; the fur Seals at the roadside.
They littered the coastline in their hundreds and were so close you could've touched them (but they smell so we didn't!)

Hundreds on seals on the coastline towards Kaikora

One came to say hello!

We took the opportunity to seek out some more sea mammals, taking a trip out on the Whale Watcher to see the sperm whale. Both taking separate trips (Evie being too young), we were lucky enough to see these impressed giants alongside seals and albatrosses and Andy was entertained by a passing a pod of Dusky Dolphins.

Whale fin as it dives

Pod of Dusky Dolphins

The sea-life also boasts fantastic crayfish, hence to Maori name KaiKora, translates as ...So of course we sampled super fresh BBQ'd specimens - yummy!!!

Evie gets her order in!

Clare tucks into the Crayfish BBQ

Of course we couldn't let the time pass without yet more, steep uphill scenic walks!

After all this hardwork we were ready to continue our trip of the east coast, first stop - hot springs in Hamner...

After all that Crayfish, a walk around the peninsula

Wellywood!

Our visit to the capital city, Wellington was a welcome break from rural life. We embraced the culture on offer and relished in some city living for a few days.  It’s a hilly city, built around Wellington harbour, famously known as the windy city. Staying true to its reputation, our hillside apartment was buffeted by gales, rain and hail.

Keen to visit a city centre bar, we quenched our thirst at the dockside. Evie was pretty pleased with her first pint.

Next stop Te Papa, the impressive and modern national museum. Our highlights; the preserved colossal squid and whale skeletons. The vague rumble in the earthquake house was a bit of a let down, but overall a great combination of history and modernity with stunning views too.

view from Te Papa

We braved an afternoon outing to the cinema with Evie, unable to resist a peak inside the beautiful building of the Embassy Cinema where Lord of the Rings premièred. After a little encouragement Evie went to sleep to the sound of the circus as Mum and Dad watched Water for Elephants.

The Embassy

Coffee is a huge part of the culture in New Zealand, particularly in Wellington boasting 16 different roasters. We tried as many as possible, our favourite - Cafe L’affare, best coffee so far, other than AllPress from Niki at Waihi Beach.

Keen to explore cake options for my habit we wandered to the food emporium Moore Wilson, but Andy and Evie just wanted cheese!

75kg wheel of cheese - yum!

Of course, we had to burn off all the cheese so embarked on what we thought was a short stroll up Mount Victoria. Well, we should have known better, what with all the health enthusiasts in Wellington. Sure enough, our 'stroll' was a 1hr 45min hike uphill, the views were worth it though.

Runners at Welly waterfront

View at Mt Victoria, Evie not that impressed!

We all had our first experiences of NZ public transport, not entirely successful, but we tried the train, bus and lastly the ferry as we headed over to the South Island. The 4m swell of the Cook Strait left Andy feeling sick before we entered the calm, beautiful waters of the Queen Charlotte Sound.

InterIslander to South Island

Queen Charlotte Sounds, the rewarding view from the Ferry